Amsterdam

Visiting Amsterdam, even if for one day, was a delightful excursion.  My memories of this canal city are so wonderful, and I wanted to see it again.  I arrived in the morning in the central train station and emerged to a beautiful summer day. 

Amsterdam's Central Train Station

My directions to the Rembrant Classic Hotel were clear and I was able to walk to this canal hotel. Amsterdam’s city centre is woven with beautiful canals, on which people boat, live and walk along side.

Although my room was not yet ready, they made a great effort to expedite my access.

On a previous visit to Amsterdam in 2004, I had seem many of the recommended tourist sites, and so I had a short list of things I wanted to do… in particular, I wanted to visit the Anne Frank House as I had missed doing that the last time.  The line can be horrendous in a busy summer tourist time, but fortunately it was less than an hour.  What a moving and sobering tour!  Otto Frank, the father and the family survivor, had insisted that the house remain unfurnished, and that made it striking in its austerity.  Pictures of the original setup were abundant.  I personally found it very emotional as Anne has, through her writing, become the very personal face for millions of young people whose lives were uprooted and eventually eradicated due to anti Semitism.  There was a powerful documentary at the conclusion that discussed the uneasy questions that our world is presently facing when making judgements about people wearing clothing that might lead to judgements… neo-nazi attire, gang attire, burkas… there were no easy answers given.

Back on the streets of Amsterdam I visited the flower market where there is an abundance of bulbs for sale and fresh flowers, which I purchased for my dinner visit with Nancy and Philippe.  The markets are beautiful and I wish I had some of the pictures I took to share on my iPad.

Dinner with my friends Nancy and Philippe and their lovely daughter Quinte was terrific.  Nancy had stayed with me in Edmonton in 2003 as she finished her university medical doctor program, and Philippe had come to Canada to see her and travel the Rockies.  We had a barbeque dinner in their home which they have done a wonderful job of restoring.  Nancy is preparing for a younger sister for Quinte in 8  weeks.

Somehow, on the tram to Nancy’s, my ipad disappeared.  I am glad the only pictures on it were the flower markets.

The next moring, I took a train to Shipinol airport and departed for London to join up with Paul and Lauren.

Paris - A Brief and Wonderful Visit

My trip to Paris was using a high speed train; it was only 3 hours long from Grenoble.  Of course, passing through the beautiful french countrysides, you can still see graffitti.

With only two days in Paris, it was a challenge to pare down all the many things one can do.  I checked into my tiny hotel room (but sweet hotel, The Magenta in the 10e arridoisement) I slipped out to find a late supper.  The streets were filled with people still, even though it was past 10 pm, and it was more of an ethnic than tourist street.  I found a little sushi place, a bit counter-intuitive for a French culinary experience, but delicious nonetheless.

My full first day found me doing a bit of walking around the city.  I walked through the cathedral, with was just breathtaking.  The work and skills of the 12C is outstanding.  I climbed the steps to the top… about 350 of them, in 39 degree heat.  There, I overlooked the city beside the gargoyles, whose real function is to be drain spouts.  

For dinner I had tartare.  So good, so French, then headed toward the Champs-Elysee where the completion of the Tour de France was about to occur!  Talk about crowds.  I believe that half of Britain was there hoping to see their team bring it home again, and they were not disappointed.  I stood beside a British cycling couple and got a few tips from them.  The crowds were crazy. Planes flew overhead leaving coloured streams in the air.

Do you see the bikes?  They went too fast!

Day two was quiet as I spent most of the morning pampering my foot which was stubbornly fighting walking.  By the time I got going, it was lunch time so I stopped for un plat du jour… kind of a brunchy meal… canard!  Another great French treat. 

I walked around les Jardins at the Luxumbourg Palace and drank a beer in the outdoor courtyard, then went to the Eiffel Tower.  I had to hang around quite a while as they didn’t turn the lights on until 10 pm, but the wait was worth it; the tower becomes one great big sparkler.  Having gone up in the cathedral, I decided NOT to do the tower elevator, and certainly not the stairs.  My foot thanked me.

What a huge structure.  There are lots of renovations going on right now so I guess I have to return to Paris to see the improvements.

France ended the next morning with a fast train to Amsterdam.  The European experience continues!

Top Ten Things NOT to do in Paris

1. Do NOT walk in the bike paths.  Almost every street has sidewalks with dedicated bike paths.  Coincidentally, these paths are usually in the only shaded part of the sidewalk, just under the tree canopy.  Bicyclists are not excited about running you over.

2.  Do not climb the  Notre Dame Cathedral stairs... all 365? of them in 39 degree weather.  The resulting water-weight loss does not compensate for the chocolate croissant at breakfast.

3.  On the same note, do NOT try to diet in Paris.  All efforts are futile.

4.  Do NOT get off at the local, labelled, stop for the Eiffel Tower.  This is Paris misleading you.  Go to Trocadero, and you will see why.

5.  Do not wear new sandals.  This needs no explanation.

6.  Do NOT attempt to interact with the men who hide a balls under one of three cups at the Eiffel Tower.  It may appear like there are many people winning... this is a scam and most of those winners are working with the cup mover.  They WILL get you.

7.  Do NOT ignore the persistent call of <<Attention!>>  which sounds a bit more like "A-TAWN-SHAN!!!"   Someone is telling you that you are in the way / blocking their access / about to get run over by a bike / about to get run over by a car. Ignore at your peril.

8.  Do NOT walk around without sunscreen. Need I say more?  Yes.

9.  Do NOT attempt to purchase sunscreen on a Sunday.  In Paris, no one gets sick or needs medication on Sunday because everyone is at home relaxing.  Except me.

10.  Do NOT try to speak French in a restaurant in Paris.  I will go something like this:

Me:  <Je veux un aurtre packet de sucre, et aussi du creme pour mon cafe s'il vous plait.>>

Waiter:  <<Oui, madame.>>

(Waiter returns and gives me a glass of wine)

Me: (Sigh) <<Merci>>  (Clearly he can read minds)

Road Trip around the Region

Paul and Lauren have a car, a great asset if you want to get going on a picnic, which was our plan for the day on Saturday.  After some research by Lauren, we decided to drive to the nearby town of Vizille, where there was a chateau housing the Musee do la revolution francaise and a park, and also a nearby lake.

Driving in France felt unproblematic (although I was not the driver).  Parking more so.  People park anywhere, but Paul is very good and we slipped into a tiny spot with ease.  The grounds of the 17C Chateau de Vizille were lovely; part manicured and part woodsy and we had a relaxing walk around the large grounds:  small waterfalls, sculpted gardens, rose gardens, fish hatcheries... all there.  Even a guillotine.

The musee itself was in the chateau and filled with artifacts from all different components of the revolution.  The beautiful furniture of the bourgoisie, the cookery, the swords, the paintings.  The entire chateau was converted and displayed. It was so well put together and the museum was free. 

We followed that up with a short drive to Lac de Laffrey, where we had a wonderful picnic lunch sitting by the lake.  It was a hot afternoon and although we were a bit short on time, Paul managed to add in a dip in the lovely water.  Our picnic was as expected... a flute, which is a larger baguette, several french cheeses, a salad prepared by Lauren in the morning, a duck sausage Paul and I picked up at the marktet, and two delicious tapinades.  How French, how delicious.

Unfortunately, our stay at the lake was limited as I had a train to catch to Paris at 5 pm, however we fit in some lovely memories and had a wonderful day.

Dinner by Lauren!

I had to share this wonderful vegetarian chick pea recipe that is one of Lauren's specialties. It is based on a  a cookbook called Vij's, which is also a facourite restaurant in Vancouver of Paul and Lauren's

Green Onion and Coconut Chickpea Curry

1/2 cup canola oil
1 Tbs Cumin seeds
1 1/2 C finely chopped onion
3 medium tomatoes, chopped coarse lay
1 1/2 tsp salt
4 Tbs finely chopped jalapeño peppers (or to taste)
5 Tbs finely chopped ginger
2 cans of chickpeas
1 can coconut milk
8 stalks green onions, green parts only, chopped in 1/4 inch pieces

Theat oil in heavy sauce pan and add cumin seeds.  Let them sizzle for about 30 seconds. And onions and sauté for about 8-10 minutes until they ar drown.  Stir in tomatoes, salt, ginge and jalapeños.  Sauté for 5 -8 minutes or until oil glistens on top,  Stir in chickpeas and coconut milk.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium low over and simmer for 5-8 minutes.  Ad green onions stir and simmer for just another minute, then serve.  

Lauren chopping.  I will be tring this out at home!

Paul was working on a French chicken and mushroom recipe.

Here is the awesome dinner, French and Indian cooking combined.  Delicious!

La Bastille

Lauren, Paul and I had a lazy start to our day as both Lauren and I were getting over our jet lag!  When we finally got going, we visited La Bastille, the fortified mountain top 15th Century garrison overlooking Grenoble. 

Although there are several ways to access La Bastille, we chose the Gondola, or the Boules, as they are a bit of a signature for Grenoble.  They are glass balls the transport you... think of how Glinda the Good Witch travels.... 

The view was spectacular if not scary.

The view from La Bastille.  See the particle accelerator!

La Bastille was never used defend the city (from Le Savoie) however it is now very funtional as a tourist draw. You can see three ranges of mountains clearly from the top. 

Sadly, graffitti is another signature of all of France.  You can hardly find a space that hasn't been vandalized.

 

There are beautiful old buildings throughout the Centre Ville, dating back centuries.  The river flowing though is skirted with ancient buildings.  It reminded me of my small walk through Zurich. 

Every day there is a market just outside of Paul's apartment.  We went there for our dinner fixings.

I loved the local butcher shop... complete with rabbit.

We returned to the apartment.  Look at the old fashioned elavor that takes us to their third floor apartment (which, at home, would be considered the fourth floor)

Lauren cooked a fabulous dinner.  I will share her amazing chick pea curry in a new post!

Adieu!




God's Pocket

Prior to the great European adventure, I was able to escape Edmonton and spend a week on Vancouver Island in a cottage with Wendy.  I'd 'won' the cottage in a silent auction at my school, Victoria, supporting a Ugandan school.  The cottage belongs to Inie Graham, a colleague, and coincidentally Emily's grade 1 teacher. 

Simon cliff jumping

Wendy, Jessica and I in the swimming hole

Jessica and Simon joined us for the long weekend and we had a great time.  Simon brought puzzles and games and we swam in the beautiful swimming hole. 





 

Later, Wendy and I explored Kinsel Tresle, one of the tallest trestle bridges in the world. John, an old friend of Wendy's, visited us and took us to a pub for lunch,  We spent a day in Victoria and visited Phyllis and John in Nanaimo.  We drove back through the States and visited the factory outlets in Tulalip, Washington.

All in all, a lovely beginning to the summer!

Grenoble

I arrived at the airport in Lyon and Paul and Lauren were there to greet me.  The drive from Lyon to Grenoble was about an hour and we arrived at their lovely apartment  near the centre-ville.  

We went out for dinner in a lovely French restaurant.  I had the most delicious rabbit for dinner.  So French, so yummy. 

Spoiled Rotten

Flying over the ocean is long and tiring, however one must honour the brilliant person who designed the pods in business class.  They were nothing short of amaying.  The chair moved every which way and had a massage component.  Sleeping was fully reclined and the pillow was REAL and the blanket was a quilt.  You are quite cocooned in the space and it is very private.  I was able to sleep, almost uninterrupted, for 6 hours!

The pod... reclines to a bed!

Lots of delicious food

I arrived in Zurich at 8 AM for a 5 hour stop over, so I took the train into the city and walked along the river until I could see Lake Zurich.  It was awesome to stretch my legs.  The city is pretty with lots of older beautiful buildings, and no shortage of clocks. It is interesstnig for me to hear so much German.  Some of it makes sense from high school, but not much.  Now I'm back at the airport lounge getting ready for the next flight!  I will add pictures to this later as ther is no hook up for the USB here to download pictures.

Zurich's business class lounge

Slow Start!

Steve was driving me to the airport when I got the ominous text from Air Canada... My flight to Toronto was cancelled!   Fortunately, I was rebooked 2 hours later and it doesn't change my arrival time.  I get to spend a little time in the Maple Leaf Lounge.   (This trip will be a bit luxurious as I'm travelling on points in the front of the plane.)

Putzing around with the iPad led the discovery that I am not able to post pictures directly from the iPad to the blog.  I will have to wrap my head around this challenge.

Yummy breakfast snacks; sure beats the main airport!

Maple Leaf Lounge

I could get used to this kind of traveling! 

Nancy



Ready, Set...

3:19 am.  No, I'm not up and ready to catch the plane.  I'm awake and can't get back to sleep (so excited)  and so am beginning my blog. Get ready, Europe, I'm on my way for my first European Vacation!

Today was a run around day preparing. Packing, making lists, last minute shopping, a bit of visiting.  Can anyone possibly go away for a month and NOT forget something important? I cleared my credit cards, added APS to my fancy new mini ipad so I can keep all my bills paid, gathered camera cords, found ear plugs... all the important travel prep activities.

I've been to Europe before, to Greece with a gaggle of high school students in the 80's.  I would be stretching it to call that a vacation.  Later, I was in Amsterdam for a short stop on my honeymoon.  Europe is virgin soil for me!  What I have learned about myself and traveling that by the end of a trip, my memory is wiped clean and so I want to blog about the holiday, for my future memories but also for my family and friends to follow as I travel. 

I leave at 8:00 and fly Edmonton - Toronto - Zurich -Lyon.  Paul picks me up tomorrow in Lyon and we are off to his cozy apartment in Grenoble! It will be awesome to visit him in his space, and to get to know my upcoming new daughter-in-law better.

The best thing: Seeing Paul and Lauren
The scariest thing: Testing out my French

Till later,

Ciao
Nancy